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BUICK NA V6 NOTES
Last Updated: 11/29/2007
SEE ALSO:
1978-83 TURBO V6 NOTES
1982 GRAND NATIONAL
NOTES
Below are some helpful facts and technical tips specific to the Buick NA (Normally Aspirated) V6. Most of the below entries are the results of question and answers from the Message Board. If you have a question not addressed here, have additional information, need clarification or disagree with something listed here, PLEASE post a message on the MESSAGE BOARD!
DISCLAIMER - Although I believe that the following are all true, please verify them before making any decision involving the restoration/modification of your vehicle. Some entries do not apply to all years/models. Also check with Federal/State laws before modifying or removing any emissions control devices.
WHERE TO START?
WHAT'S NA?
- If you don't know already, it means NORMALLY
ASPIRATED. This refers to carburetion. The 3.8, 2-barrel,
non-turbo V6 is usually called a 3.8 NA to distinguish it from
the 3.8 Turbo V6. Fuel injection, while more "normal"
now than carbs, traditionally was not called NA.
FREDDIE'S RECIPE
- If you new to the Buick NA V6 and would like a "recipe" to
follow, try this out. BEFORE BLACK - NA Freddie's Recipe
ENGINE MECHANICAL
CONVERTING
A NON-TURBO V6 TO A TURBO V6?
- If you have a
normally aspirated (NA) Buick V6 and you want to add a
turbocharger to it for some easy horsepower, please read "CONVERT TO A
CARB/TURBO?" first.
It's a little long, but it should be very helpful. Also read
about an alternative to the factory draw-thru system; "CONVERT TO A
CARB/TURBO? PART II?"
BUICK 4.1 LITRE V6 MOTORS - The Buick
3.8 and 4.1 are nearly identical with the exception of the bore.
Also all NA 3.8's are 2-barrels, while all 4.1's are four
barrels. Finding a Regal with the 4.1 V6 in the junk yard can be
difficult. Here is a list of GM cars which used the 4.1 litre V6, courtesy of David
Chase, Silver6.
ODD Vs EVEN FIRE - The first Buick V6
were the proverbial "V8's minus 2 cylinders". This
produced uneven (odd) firing intervals. In mid-1977, Buick split
the rod journals on the crank to produce even firing intervals.
The easiest way to tell them apart is the distributor cap. An
even-fire will have six towers, while an odd-fire will have eight
towers with two blocked off. NOTE: An odd-fire engine will
run, although very poorly, with an even fire cap.
LIFTER TICKING? - If you think you have
a lifter ticking, first check for a cracked exhaust manifold or
leaking gasket. These are very common problems on the Buick V6,
and sound very much like a ticking lifter. It's worth a look and
much, much easier to repair.
ENGINE ELECTRICAL & EMISSIONS
1981-1987 COMPUTER COMMAND CONTROL (CCC) - Since 1981 (1980 in CA), the Turbo V6
has used a Computer Command Control System (CCC) to control many
engine functions. The Electronic Control Module (ECM) monitors
and controls various systems that effect vehicle performance. The
ECM can recognize some operational problems and alert the driver
through the "CHECK ENGINE" light. A SCAN tool can be
connected to the computer by using the ALDL port under the dash.
The tool will display the output of various sensors (Oxygen, RPM,
etc.) and display trouble codes. The codes can also be retrieve
by grounding the test terminals on the ALDL port with a jumper
(wire or paper clip). Do not buy "code readers", they
just fancy (and very expensive) jumpers. This tech page from the
Turbo Regal Web Site will explain more: GN/GNX/T-Type
Malfunction Codes Codes for Carb/Turbo
cars can be found here: 1981/83
ECM CODES
ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL (ESC) - The
ESC system is what made the turbocharger practical for Buick's V6
application. The Achilles' heel to a turbo set up is detonation,
or knocking. Under boost, detonation increases and will damage
the engine. Most earlier and aftermarket system uses water
injection to reduce detonation. Buick engineers developed the ESC
system. The system uses a sensor to "listen" for
knocking. When knocking is detected, the ESC retards the engine's
timing to prevent it. The more knocking, the more retarding of
timing, the less performance. To avoid knocking (and therefore
maximize performance) use premium, high octane, fuel. The higher
the octane, the greater the fuels resistance to detonation. See
the KNOCK,
KNOCK page for more detailed
information.
TPS READINGS - The ECM uses reading from the Thottle
Position Sensor (TPS) to determine how much the throttle plates are open and
uses this to adjust the fuel mixture. The TPS is usually set to some valve
with the fast idle cam on the highest position. My '83 Turbo V6 Quadrajet
had the following readings:
Since the scale is linear, notice that the seconadies do not begin to open until 90% throttle movement. At some valve (I wish I knew exactly), the ECM goes into WOT enirchment, mimicking a power valve's function in a non-electronic carb. If the base setting is too low, the WOT may not be high enough to achieve enrichment. The TPS setting also influence TCC lock-up.
EXHAUST
EXHAUST
MANIFOLD GASKETS - Buick V6 engines do not come with
exhaust manifold gaskets. Most rebuilders, however, use them.
After blowing out three gaskets, all at the number 2 cylinder
(right, front), I quit using them. Instead, I use a very thin
coat of Permatex Ultra-Copper. Just check the the mating surface
on the manifold is in plane. If not, take it to a machine shop.
More importantly, torque each bolt to proper specs and recheck
often!
HEADERS
-
ENGINE LUBRICATION
PRIME THAT PUMP ! - Any time the
oil pump cover is removed, the pump will loose it's prime. It
needs to be packed completely with petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
before reassembly. Without it, the pump will not be able to pull
oil from the pan the first time it is spun.
Source: Jim Ruggles' Buick Stage One V6
Performance Guide, Petersen Publishing Company
BETTER LUBRICATION - For high performance applications,
their are many different approaches to improving the V6's
lubrication. Which is the best? Sorry, I don't know. They all
have benefits and draw backs. It depends on your application. I
suggest installing an oil pressure gauge to confirm adequate
pressure, then research the options and pick which one best suits
your needs. Good pressure and clean oil are most important. Some
of the more common upgrades are briefly explained on this page: OILING SYSTEM
UPGRADES.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGE - Your car probably has a
simple "idiot" light instead of an oil pressure gauge.
I recommend installing a high quality 0-100 psi gauge. They are
very easy to install. I went with Auto Meter's Ultra-Lite
0-100 mechanical 2 1/16" gauge (#4321) which compliments the
stock Buick gauges well..
"NORMAL" OIL PRESSURE - Everyone
has different opinions about what the "normal" oil
pressure should be. From the Jim Ruggles' Buick Stage One V6
Performance Guide: "These engines will idle at about 14
pounds of hot oil pressure." This is for the NA motor and
prior to any modifications. Ruggles prefers 20-25 psi with a
high-performance street Buick V6.
CARBURETOR, FUEL SYSTEM, & INTAKE
"ROCHESTER CARBURETORS" By Doug Roe- I
highly Recommend this book. It explains the operation, repair,
tuning and performance modifications of the Quadrajet and other
Rochester carbs. Covers electronic and non-electronic
carburetors. Published by HP Books, copyright 1981.
FOUR
BARREL V6 INTAKES - If
your have a 3.8 with a two-barrel carb and intake, this should be
your first modification, in my opinion. A very good choice is a
factory aluminum four intake and Quadrajet for a 4.1 V6. Many
have electronic Quadrajets that can directly take the place of an
electronic two-barrel. There are plenty of aftermarket intake.
Find out about them before buying. Some don't have EGR
provisions. Some are design for pre-'79 heads. And then some are
for spreadbore carburetors. Some aftermarket intakes are made by
Edlebrock, Offenhauser, Holley, Weiand and Kenne-Bell. (A
junkyard 4.1 intake/carb has to be the best bargain.)
STAGE
II V6 INTAKES - Stage II
Buick V6 are factory high performance parts. They are very
valuable and most find there way into very fast (read 9sec and
faster) 86/87 Turbo Regals. There are quite a few Stage II four
barrel intakes around (they were common in NASCAR racing). Since
they are for carbs, and not SFI, they don't have the value of
other Stage parts. But stay away from them, even if they are
cheap. A Stage II intake cannot be used without the expensive
Stage II heads. Production heads use an intake/exhaust valve
arrangement of E I I E I E, while Stage II uses E I E I E I.
SECONDARY METERING ENRICHMENT - One way
to richen the WOT mixture is to adjust the Quadrajet's secondary
metering rods. This should not lead to an over rich condition at
idle or part throttle, since the secondaries are typically
closed. (This will work on the CCC-carb as well, because only the
primary barrels are ECM controlled.) The secondaries' jets are
fixed, but the metering rods can be swapped. They are easily
changed by removing one screw that holds their hanger between the
secondaries' air valves. Then just lift them out. Different rods
have different size tips. According to the Rochester
Carburetors book, thinner tips lead to a richer mixture. For
drag racing, the author also recommends rods that have tips where
the thin part is longer (all rods have same overall length). Rods
are stamped with ID letters, but there is no pattern to the
codes. The Rochester Carburetors book has a complete
list of dimensions listed by ID code. The hanger itself can also
be changed to adjust the mixture. The lower the holes on the
hanger, the richer the mixture. In this case, the ID code has a
pattern. The hanger should be stamped with a letter from B to V.
B is the richest (highest hole) and V is the leanest
(lowest hole). (Note: The Roe Carb book has this listed
incorrectly) Not all rods and hanger are available from GM
or aftermarket, so the best bet is to get them from a rebuilder
or junk yard.
FUEL STARVATION? - I thought I
was experiencing a fuel starvation problem until I read this in a
GM training manual: "A poor performance comment may be
received from a customer......on [quadrajet] V-6 engines....It
may be described as running out of fuel
when actually the engine is running too rich." This is opposite of what most would expect.
The recommendation is to go to leaner secondary metering rods.
SPECIAL MANIFOLD BOLT - "On those
Buick V6 engines equipped with the large diameter HEI integral
coil distributor, a clutch head bolt (Torx) is used for clearance
purposes under the distributor. This bolt is readily seen once
the distributor has been pulled." The Buick Free Spirit
Power Manual by John Thawley, copyright 1980.
SECONDARIES NOT OPENING? - One of the most
common sources of low power (or low boost on Turbo V6's) is that the Quadrajet's
secondaries are not opening. The secondaries are open via mechanical
linkage, so the vacuum or load doesn't matter. When you are looking to see if
the secondaries are opening, you are mainly concerned with the lower butterflies
(throttle plates) in the throttle body, not the upper butterflies (air valves)
in the air horn. Those should be held shut by spring pressure and easily opened
with your finger (just make sure they aren't binding).
In the throttle body (base of carb) there are two shafts. The secondary shaft,
when viewed from the driver's side, is green, with a slot, wrapped by a spring
and have a black "pointer" sticking up towards 12 o'clock. When you
work the linkage by hand, the pointer will move from 12 to ~3 o'clock. Notice
the slot in the end fo the throttle shaft. It may not turn. If it isn't, then
the throttle plates aren't opening, but this may be normal. As Scott mentioned,
there is a lock out on the passenger side that keep the plates from opening when
cold. You can either push it out of the way, or drive the car until warm. Then
when you work the linkage, you should be able to see the slot move. The
seconadries do not open until about 90% of full throttle. They are really only good
for WOT blasts.
AIR CLEANER
THERMOSTATIC AIR CLEANER (THERMAC) - The
air cleaner is design to provide an incoming air temperature of
about 115 degrees (F). A temperature sensor is in the carburetor
elbow and is used to control a vacuum actuated damper door in the
snorkel of the air box. This door on the snorkel blends incoming
air with air heated by the right side exhaust manifold, via a
very narrow duct. This improves winter weather driveability.
Warmer climate and summer only driven vehicles can do without
thus system. During WOT acceleration, the (carburetor) vacuum
drops to zero and the door will slowly open to allow unblended
air through the snorkel alone. There is an inline delay valve
which could be remove for quicker opening of the damper door.
COOLING
THERMOSTAT - The Buick V6 share the same
thermostat as the Small Block Chevy, so there are a wide variety
of temperatures to choose from. Do not removed the thermostat
completely on CCC cars. The ECM needs the coolant warm to achive
"Closed Loop".
DRIVETRAIN
200-4R
OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSIONS - The 200-4R OD trans came in
the Turbo Regals in 1983-87. The only Buick NA V6 Regal with the
200-4R that I am aware of is the 1984 with a 4.1 V6. The 200-4R
uses a different crossmemebr than the non-OD transmissions. All
Regal frames from 1984 and on have the correct frame braces for
the 200-4R's crossmember.
1st | 2nd | 3rd | 4th (overdrive) | |
350 | 2.52 | 1.52 | 1.00 | N/A |
200-4R | 2.74 | 1.57 | 1.00 | 0.67 |
REAR
AXLE RATIO - Most Buick NA V6 Regals seem to have a 2.41
rear axle ratio. To check the ratio on RWD cars, jack up one
wheel, rotate it two times, and count the number of time
the driveshaft turns (or jack up both wheels and rotate
them once together). The RWD cars should have a 2.41,
2.73, 3.08, 3.23 or 3.42. If you want to change, consider
swapping complete rears, as it might be easier and cheaper.
LIMITED
SLIP - To check, jack up both wheels, turn one
and the other will turn in the same direction if it is
positraction. Also, look for a tag bolted to the differential.
Please note that Positraction is Chevy's name for limited slip
differential.
DIFFERENTIAL
- All NA Regals (and 1978-81 Centurys) use the 7.5"
rear. A good source for lower ratio, limited slip and 22mm sway
bars are 1983-87 Monte Carlo SS or other G-body cars. 8.5"
Rears are much stronger (and much more expensive). Look for these
under 1984-87 Turbo Regals (3.42) and Cutlass HO/442's (3.73).
SUSPENSION
FRONT
SWAY BARS - Most NA Regals have tiny, 25mm, front sway
bars. Finding a larger 31mm bar on a G-body in the junkyard is
easy. You will just need new bushing and end links. The next step
is finding a 36mm hallow bar from a 3rd genration
Camaro/Firebird. It will bolt right in.
REAR
SWAY BARS - Most NA Regals didn't come with rear sway
bars. Finding a rear bar on a G-body in the junkyard is easy
(sound familiar?). The largest is 22mm. Don't forget to get the
mounting shims from within the lower control arms.
BOXING
THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS - Wheel hop can easily be
prevented by boxing the lower control arms. Procedures can be
found on the Turbo Regal Website (See the links page).
MISCELLANEOUS
SPID / RPO STICKERS - Can't find the
Service Part Identification sticker under the decklid with the
Regular Production Option codes? GM didn't start using the SPID
stickers until 1984.
A-BODY vs. G-BODY REGALS - All 1978-87
Regals are essentially the same car. However, for 1981, the
Regal's sheetmetal received an aerodynamic upgrade. The 1978-'80
Regals share all major sheetmetal, while the 1981-'87 are the
same (with the exception of a header panel change for 1984). The
1978 Regal was designated an A-body, along with the Century. In
1982, the Century split from the Regal and became front-wheel
drive. The '82 Century kept the A-body name while the Regal was
now called a G-body. Many publications (GM and non-GM) tend to
group the 1981 Regal with the 1978-'80 models because they share
the A-body name. It is more appropriate to group it with the
1982-'87 cars, since it has more in common with them.